|
| I
bought a normal water trap from Gemini Air in Pretoria West.
Myself and the guy there had a long discussion about the problem.
He recons that if I use a oil filter which they use on compressors
it might cause damage since the filter can easily get blocked.
It is designed to filter air under high pressure but the air
running through the breather hose is close to atmospheric pressure.
So he suggested that a normal water trap, normally used on compressors,
will work since the only thing you really need is the cyclonic
action. (so ask for a water trap with 3/4" ports, cost
about R280.00) . The air and oil moves into the trapped and
are spinned around the side. Because it has different densities
the oil will move downwards and the air will escape on the other
side. I bought the big water trap with 3/4" in/out ports.
The breather hose on the engine is also 3/4" (19mm). Also
note that I used normal plastic fittings which I bought at The
Irrigation shop in SIlverton. It is an elbow with a 19mm metric
thread on the one end and on the other end it has the grooves
for the pipe to push over. I used a 19mm rubber hose which I
bought from Midas. |
|
| The
water trap also has a little filter inside. If this filter gets
blocked gases and pressure and build up in the engine's crank
case which can force oil out at the seals. So I drilled a couple
of 4mm holes in the filter to prevent it. Remember that it was
designed to filter water at high pressure from the air so the
big holes will not do any harm. I actually think it will work
just as good if you remove the filter completely. |
|
| I
decided to keep the original oil separator So the breather hose
from the tapped cover still goes into the oil separator I removed
the elbow shaped hose which runs from the separator to the air
intake. I connected one hose on the separator side and the other
one on the air intake side. The other ends were obviously connected
to the water trap. The water trap works one way only so make
sure you connect it correctly, there are arrows on the top of
the casing indicating the direction of air flow. |
|
| The
water trap fitted nicely between the diesel filter and the air
filter. The only permanent alteration I made was the small 6
mm hole I drilled into the diesel filter bracket in order to
fix the water trap with a cable tie. |
|
| The
trap fits nicely and almost looks like a factory fitted feature. |
|
| VERY IMPORTAND: |
| Remember
that the original problem was the oil in the inter cooler. The
mod we just did will prevent further oil entering the inter
cooler. You MUST now remove the oil that is already in the inter
cooler. If you do not have the time or the guts to do the above
mentioned modification, at least clean your inter cooler. This
makes a HUGE difference in you low end performance. It is very
easy to do. Just undo the two nuts and two bolts that attach
the inter cooler. On the one side is a little bracket for the
wiring, loosen that as well. The loosen the pipes on both ends
and merely lift the inter cooler from its position. |
| Put
the inter cooler. on the ground upside down. Now pour two cups
of Lacquer thinners into the air intake ports. Block the ports
off with anything like rags. Pick it up, shake it. Move it in
all directions to make sure the thinners runs through the core.
Take the plugs out and rinse it. Repeat the exercise. Now, VERY
IMPORTAND, put the inter cooler in the sun with the one port
at the top and other one at the bottom so that the thinners
can drain at the bottom or evaporate at the top. After two hours
put it back. When you start the engine for the first time, let
it just idle for at least a minute, DO NOT rev it. Just in case
there might be more thinners in the inter cooler. |